Troubleshooting Steps

1. Ensure light fixtures are properly installed.

2. Ensue light fixtures are receiving the correct amount of power (voltage).

3. Ensure light fixtures are not overpowered.

4. Ensure lights fixtures are not exposed to excess heat.

5. Ensure lights fixtures have no water/moisture damage.

6. Steps to take if light flickering.

7. Determine if light fixtures have reached "end of life" and need replacement.

If the light fixtures are starting to dim after five years of being operated daily they may be reaching their end of life; please call us to order replacements.

  1. Ensure the jumpers are plugged in all the way.
  2. Ensure that the light fixture(s) is connected to a Class 2 LED driver correctly; if using a hard wire Class 2 LED driver, ensure it is hard wired correctly by a licensed electrician.
  3. If the light is still flickering, ensure the jumper is plugged into the correct end (our light fixtures are polarized so the side where power is going into must be plugged into the correct end; usually there should be a small red dot or American flag sticker on this side). See point #1 above for more information.

a. If you can see any water and/or condensation within the fixture tube and/or the end caps, your fixture needs to be replaced.

  • Our fixture will operate in an environment up to 170 ° F.
  • If your fixture is too close to a heating element it could cause your fixture to fail or dim. To avoid this possibility, all fixtures need to be a minimum of 2”-4” from heating elements and if possible, an additional metal strip should be provided as a shield between the heating elements and the fixture.
  • We recommend that any light fixture longer then 45” not be used in hot cases as expansion/contraction of the extrusions may occur when they are exposed to heat and then cooling, resulting in failures.
  • Our high temperature rated jumper cords need to be used.
  • If your fixtures have been overpowered with a power surge or were overpowered by being connected to more than the required 12vDC or 24vDC power supply, then the resistor will fail causing the LEDS to not illuminate.
  • If your fixture is in a clear tube, you can visually look through the lens and see if the resistors are still attached to the PCB (printed circuit board) or if they have brown or black stains around the resistors. If you see brown or black stains, or no resistors, then the fixtures have been overpowered and need to be replaced.
  • If your light fixture has a frosted tube and you believe it has been overpowered, you can test this fixture with an appropriate working Class 2 LED driver. If it still does not work, contact our customer service department for return procedures.
  • All our lights fixtures must be used with a Class 2 LED driver and most fixture failures occur because of this Class 2 driver failing. When this happens all the light fixtures will be dim, flicker or not light at all.
  • Use a voltmeter to check to see if 12v or 24v is coming from the Class 2 LED driver.
  • If you don’t have a voltmeter, but you do have a duplicate LEDingEDGE fixture that is working elsewhere, replace the fixture that is not working with the one that is working; if the known working fixture now does not work, then you know the Class LED driver needs to be replaced or the wiring fixed. On the other hand, if the known working fixture continues to work, you now know that the failure is with light fixture you previously removed. At this point, contact LEDingEDGE for a replacement.
  • If a duplicate working fixture is not available and the fixture(s) have been getting dimmer over time, but still illuminate, replace the Class 2 driver. If the light fixtures then work, you know it was because of a Class 2 LED driver failure.