Troubleshooting Steps
1. Ensure light fixtures are properly installed.
2. Ensure appropriate power driver is being used.
3. Ensure light fixtures are receiving the correct amount of voltage.
4. Ensure light fixtures are not overpowered.
5. Ensure lights fixtures are not exposed to excess heat.
6. Ensure lights fixtures have no water/moisture damage.
7. Steps to take if light flickering.
8. Determine if light fixtures have reached "end of life" and need replacement.
Troubleshooting Tips
LEDingEDGE low voltage lighting fixtures are manufactured with low voltage LEDs each powered at 50mA or 65mA and one resistor for every 4 LEDS if 12V or one resister every 8 LEDS if 24V.
The most common LED light fixture failures are the result of one of following:
- Incorrect installation
- Overpowered
- End of life
- Water or moisture damage
- Exposure to high temperatures (85°C - 185°F) for an extended period
- Flickering light
- Incorrect installation
- Ensure the jumper is fully plugged all the way into the correct end of the light fixture(s) and not loose (the smaller rectangular shape of the connector on the jumper needs to be flush with end cap).
- Our light fixtures are polarized so the first fixture must receive the power by plugging the jumper cord coming from the Class 2 LED driver into the end that has a small red dot or American flag sticker on it. If this first fixture is then connected to additional fixture(s) the jumper cord(s) need to come from the powered fixture and then also connected into the side of the additional fixture with the red dot or American flag sticker.
- If there is no sticker, ensure the jumper cord connectors are inserted correctly into the end cap ports. Note that at one end of the light fixture the end cap port has a flat bottom and a polarized top key; the other end of the same light fixture has an end cap port with a flat top and a bottom with a polarized bottom key (see below pictures).
End cap with polarized top key and Jumper with polarized groove
End cap with polarized bottom key and Jumper with polarized groove
- Overpowered:
- If your fixtures have been overpowered with a power surge or were overpowered by being connected to more than the required 12vDC or 24vDC power supply, then the resistor will fail causing the LEDS to not illuminate.
- If your fixture is in a clear tube, you can visually look through the lens and see if the resistors are still attached to the PCB (printed circuit board) or if they have brown or black stains around the resistors. If you see brown or black stains, or no resistors, then the fixtures have been overpowered and need to be replaced.
- If your light fixture has a frosted tube and you believe it has been overpowered, you can test this fixture with an appropriate working Class 2 LED driver. If it still does not work, contact our customer service department for return procedures.
- End of life:
- If the light fixtures are starting to dim after five years of being operated daily they may be reaching their end of life; please call us to order replacements.
- Water and / or condensation damage:
- If you can see any water and/or condensation within the fixture tube and/or the end caps, your fixture needs to be replaced.
- Heat damage:
- Our fixture will operate in an environment up to 170 ° F.
- If your fixture is too close to a heating element it could cause your fixture to fail or dim. To avoid this possibility, all fixtures need to be a minimum of 2”-4” from heating elements and if possible, an additional metal strip should be provided as a shield between the heating elements and the fixture.
- We recommend that any light fixture longer then 45” not be used in hot cases as expansion/contraction of the extrusions may occur when they are exposed to heat and then cooling, resulting in failures.
- Our high temperature rated jumper cords need to be used.
- Flickering light:
If your light fixture is flickering light, please take the following steps:- Ensure the jumpers are plugged in all the way.
- Ensure that the light fixture(s) is connected to a Class 2 LED driver correctly; if using a hard wire Class 2 LED driver, ensure it is hard wired correctly by a licensed electrician.
- If the light is still flickering, ensure the jumper is plugged into the correct end (our light fixtures are polarized so the side where power is going into must be plugged into the correct end; usually there should be a small red dot or American flag sticker on this side). See point #1 above for more information.
Troubleshooting Tips
LEDingEDGE low voltage lighting fixtures are manufactured with low voltage LEDs each powered at 50mA or 65mA and one resistor for every 4 LEDS if 12V or one resister every 8 LEDS if 24V.
The most common LED light fixture failures are the result of one of following:
- Incorrect installation
- Overpowered
- End of life
- Water or moisture damage
- Exposure to high temperatures (85°C - 185°F) for an extended period
- Flickering light
- Incorrect installation
- Ensure the jumper is fully plugged all the way into the correct end of the light fixture(s) and not loose (the smaller rectangular shape of the connector on the jumper needs to be flush with end cap).
- Our light fixtures are polarized so the first fixture must receive the power by plugging the jumper cord coming from the Class 2 LED driver into the end that has a small red dot or American flag sticker on it. If this first fixture is then connected to additional fixture(s) the jumper cord(s) need to come from the powered fixture and then also connected into the side of the additional fixture with the red dot or American flag sticker.
- If there is no sticker, ensure the jumper cord connectors are inserted correctly into the end cap ports. Note that at one end of the light fixture the end cap port has a flat bottom and a polarized top key; the other end of the same light fixture has an end cap port with a flat top and a bottom with a polarized bottom key (see below pictures).
End cap with polarized top key and Jumper with polarized groove
End cap with polarized bottom key and Jumper with polarized groove
- Overpowered:
- If your fixtures have been overpowered with a power surge or were overpowered by being connected to more than the required 12vDC or 24vDC power supply, then the resistor will fail causing the LEDS to not illuminate.
- If your fixture is in a clear tube, you can visually look through the lens and see if the resistors are still attached to the PCB (printed circuit board) or if they have brown or black stains around the resistors. If you see brown or black stains, or no resistors, then the fixtures have been overpowered and need to be replaced.
- If your light fixture has a frosted tube and you believe it has been overpowered, you can test this fixture with an appropriate working Class 2 LED driver. If it still does not work, contact our customer service department for return procedures.
- End of life:
- If the light fixtures are starting to dim after five years of being operated daily they may be reaching their end of life; please call us to order replacements.
- Water and / or condensation damage:
- If you can see any water and/or condensation within the fixture tube and/or the end caps, your fixture needs to be replaced.
- Heat damage:
- Our fixture will operate in an environment up to 170 ° F.
- If your fixture is too close to a heating element it could cause your fixture to fail or dim. To avoid this possibility, all fixtures need to be a minimum of 2”-4” from heating elements and if possible, an additional metal strip should be provided as a shield between the heating elements and the fixture.
- We recommend that any light fixture longer then 45” not be used in hot cases as expansion/contraction of the extrusions may occur when they are exposed to heat and then cooling, resulting in failures.
- Our high temperature rated jumper cords need to be used.
- Flickering light:
If your light fixture is flickering light, please take the following steps:- Ensure the jumpers are plugged in all the way.
- Ensure that the light fixture(s) is connected to a Class 2 LED driver correctly; if using a hard wire Class 2 LED driver, ensure it is hard wired correctly by a licensed electrician.
- If the light is still flickering, ensure the jumper is plugged into the correct end (our light fixtures are polarized so the side where power is going into must be plugged into the correct end; usually there should be a small red dot or American flag sticker on this side). See point #1 above for more information.
Ensure light fixtures are properly installed
a. Plug in the Jumper Cord Securely
Make sure the jumper cord is:
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Fully inserted into the light fixture’s port.
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Not loose.
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Aligned correctly — the smaller rectangular connector on the jumper must sit flush with the fixture’s end cap.
b. Power the Polarized Fixtures Correctly
These fixtures are polarized, meaning power must enter in a specific direction.
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Find the end of the fixture with a red dot or American flag sticker — this is the power input side. Plug the jumper cord from the Class 2 LED driver into this side with the red dot or American flag sticker.
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When connecting additional multiple fixtures in a single run:
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After the first fixture is powered correctly (via the jumper cord from the Class 2 LED driver into the side marked with a red dot or American flag sticker), use additional jumper cords to connect from the powered fixture to the next fixture in line. When doing this always plug the jumper cord into the sticker-marked side of each additional fixture.
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Repeat this for each fixture in the run, maintaining the correct orientation (sticker side = power input side).
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c. If No Sticker is Present
Check the end cap port shape to determine the correct orientation:
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One end of the fixture: port has a polarized flat bottom (the top has a "v" shape). This is the power input side.
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Other end: port has a poarized flat top (the bottom has a "v' shape). This is the power output side.
Ensure the jumper cord connector matches the port shape and keying before plugging in.
End cap with polarized flat bottom (the top has a "v" shape). This is the power input side.
End cap with poarized flat top (the bottom has a "v' shape). This is the power output side.
